Bloody bogging car - possible FIX?

[jasssper]

Hey all
Ive had alot of problem with the exceleration of my car, between 2000 and 2700 revs my car struggles to gain power and before it hits 3000 revs it decides to kick in ad finally us its proper power
its like a jolty feel when driving (is crap)

This is what i have done to c what the problem it,
Checked TPS (fine)
Checked and cleaned carby (fine)
Got injectors checked (running reasonable and put Liquid engineering injector cleaner in it)

One doubt may be the fuel pressure

One point is that when i drive the car all day long by the end of the day my car runs great and there is very lttle or no bogging in my car, but goes back to crap when my car is cold again (and i mean all day drivint 150+km)
would anyone have any other recomendations or know where to go to find out what the problem is
i have no idea anymore
Thanks pple
Jasper

[xlnsss]

i had a problem similair to this, and my mechanic adjusted the base idle and all was sweet, but now it is back again :( I would say this is a very common problem.

[Longrod von Hugendong]

I just had my throttle body and EGR valve cleaned and i've got no more flat spot. It's made a hell of a difference. Second gear is bliss........

RW

[Spectrix]

a lot of people complain about this. how did you go about cleaning them?

[Longrod von Hugendong]

Spectrix,

I just got the mechanic to do it while it was in for a service. It's made a big difference. Doesn't almost stall when you pull up at lights and put the clutch in......flat spots in second and third at around 2.5K RPM has gone......it is just smoother to drive all round.

Ryan

[Longrod von Hugendong]

He hasn't listed it in the invoice so he must have done it as a freebie.............it's definitley been done though, there is a big difference.

Ryan

[Spectrix]

who's your mechaninc?

proper throttle body clean is a big job.. several hours work

[Longrod von Hugendong]

Evan Cox Automotive in Kirrawee (Sydney)
I specifically asked for it and I watched him put down under my booking......you've got me thinking though:confused:

Ryan

[kamikaze]

well i did the normal way of cleaning the throttle body with out taking it out etc the tooth brush way and i also did the egr value clean etc it made a little different.

But i still notice when putting it in first to stop at lights it jsut about stalls go's to about 500rpms maybe lower.

Although in the morning there is no hestiation like before, but in the afternoon when i goto drive home THERE is :) LIKE WTF :)

Maybe i need to take the throttle body off and clean it but it was pretty clean.

Also my injectors don't need doing i check them out there fine.

[Nismo_boi]

yer i had got that prob... i told my mechanic and he adjusted the idle... the bogging is still there... and whats worse is that the engine turns off sometimes when i'm down gearing to 2nd.. u can feel the power steering turn off as the steering gets stiffer.. ****** ******... need to get him to fix that

[jasssper]

well i might b getting a carbon clean but i really wanna pin point my problem and i was thinking of running it on a machine to test all sencors etc.

Hopefully that will give me an idea

[kamikaze]

Tell me how the carbon clean go's if it fixs it and how much it costs.

[jasssper]

yeh will let u know
prob bout 100 - 150

[Splash]

Originally posted by Spectrix
who's your mechaninc?

proper throttle body clean is a big job.. several hours work

several hours work? its not that hard..

all you need to do is pull the intake pipe off and spray some cleaner shit over the butterfly etc and all the crap just dissolves off..

[Spectrix]

OK dan wanna help me do it??

[Spectrix]

Lately I've noticed fuel econ has been poor and i'm getting a weird hesitation thing.. not sure how to describe it, but in first gear, going from no throttle to part throttle results in a surge.

its like a wave of power bouncing between engine and wheels.. almost like kangaroo hopping or whatever its called... you see learner drivers doing it at the lights when they try to get moving. :silly:

[jasssper]

yeh thats a good way to describe the problem, thats exacly what i have and it very common at 2500k
what are you doing to find out what the problem is??
thanks
Jasper

[Spectrix]

Well, the only thing I can think off is cleaning the throttle body and egr valve, and since Danny thinks its so easy I might send him under the hood ;p

[kamikaze]

Well i done that as it said on the se-r.net webpage for hestiation and cleaned my throttle body with a tooth brush and the throttle body cleaner thou not as good as taking the whole throttle body off.

I did notice it didn't seem to have the hestiation in the mornings but it still does it a little bit.

thinking of getting a carbon clean.

[Spectrix]

Hmmm (spectrix ponders hard work) might have to do it properly.. take the whole thing off and use dad's toothbrush and a whole can of..... what do you spray onto it?

[xlnsss]

throttle body cleaner or carby cleaner, these are the same thing.

[Splash]

go to a subaru dealer and get a can of "Upper Engine Cleaner".. from memory its about $20 or something for a can... but its awesome shit..

Used it on my Cousin's VT commodore.. should have seen the smoke it blew while we ran it to clean all the shit out..

Made a big difference too.. the car used to run like crap in the cold.. hesitate etc.. runs like new now.. (its done over 150,000km which is alot for a VT)

[Spectrix]

Ok I can can get some of that stuff..

So can you help me pls Dan?
The SE-R article is vague with poor pictures..
Perhaps if you could get hold of that digital camera and we can make a tech article about it as we go.

;)

[Splash]

yeah i wanna do my car at the same time..

wont be able to get the digital camera.. they're using it to take pictures of a renovation atm..

afaik there is some good instructions on the can..

[Spectrix]

Okey Dokey..
Your place or mine.. Is there a gasket on the throttle body that is gonna cause hassles? Wondering about tourque settings aswell, as I dont have the appropriate tools for that kind of adjustment.. :rolleyes:

Heheh Bri & Hels will be stocked about a fix the car day.. maybe they can go shopping together or whatever it is that girls do when they get together.
Hels always wants me to go shopping, but fark.. there's only so much "lets check out bra's n things" and "do i look good in this ridiculous looking one armed top" that a guy can take. :vomit:

[kamikaze]

so your guys taking the whole throttle body off. ??

[Spectrix]

ah well we were talking offline and danny suggests just doing the easy method for now..

will try that first and see what difference it makes, then maybe later do it properly and make a tech article.

[kamikaze]

YEa i did easy way so far.
and egr valve clean thats easy to do

[BootySlap]

Anyone know where to get a good carbon clean done in Sydney ?

[kamikaze]

No idea sorry, but ifyou find a place can you tell me and how much and how your car was after.

[BootySlap]

Yea no worries.. I gotta get some cash first (any idea how much it would cost?) but hopefully it will fix the rest of my hesitation problem that wasnt fixed by a EGR n throttle body clean!

[jasssper]

To Everyone

Im a very happy chappy cos my problem is fixed. No more bobbing or anything.

The problem wasnt anything it just was the distributor cap, it was conjested with that white build up, all i did was scrape it all off with a screw driver and also ordered a new cap brom bosch.

Now it drives like a charm
So check your distributor cap and srape the white build up and should fix the problem, or buy a new one. Mine is warn and crap but drives great now.

Found out about distributor cap from se-r

Thanks
Jasper

[xlnsss]

Originally posted by BootySlap
Anyone know where to get a good carbon clean done in Sydney ?

try ultratune i think they do one, its called the ULTRA 2000 service check it out here. Link (http://www.ultratune.com.au)

[BootySlap]

ok thanks jasssper and xlnsss ill do both! :)

[Spectrix]

I just cleaned one side of the throttle body with a throttle/carby solvent and a toothbrush.
I couldn't see into it because its halfway down the engine bay and there are tube and wires all over the shop.
I only got a small amount of carbon out and it didn't seem that dirty.
I also did jaspers trick scraping the white shit off the distrubutor (contacts?) Inside the cap was very clean, but the contacts did have a residue on them.

Went for a cruise and it ran well, but I don't know if the main problem of fuel econ. will be fixed.
I'll post again after the next tank of fuel to let you guys know.
Ultra tune's fuel line service looks resonable, I'll get a quote on that if it hasn't improved.

In terms of a shudder going from no throttle to part throttle, I realised this morning the the accelerator was a bit sticky just on the first bit, - so it was holding back and then going in further than I'd want all of a sudden - some lube on the throttle side of the cable (in the engine bay) seems to have fixed this.

[BootySlap]

Ok just rang UltraTune Parramatta and its $169 for their carbon clean which includes throttle body clean etc..

Seems not too bad! I might go get it done in a few wks.

[Spectrix]

That sounds alright.

Just to clarify.. should one focus on the throttle butterfly or look past that too?

[BootySlap]

Hmm i think it is good to clean around the plate with the toothbrush as this bit gets the dirtiest and can prevent the plate closing properly and sticking. I aint no mechanic though :)

[NOCODE]

My pulsar does the same, it really shits me.
I found that a carbon clean (on car injector clean)fixed the problem but only for a while, it always comes back!!!!!
I think its inherent with the SR-20, but anyone who knows how to fix the problem forever, is a legend.
:bawlink:

[kamikaze]

How long did it stop the problem after the carbon clean ??

[NOCODE]

About 3000-4000k's then slowly came back.

[kamikaze]

So if say you started your car up tommorow morning
around 8 o clock it wouldn't have the problem ??

If you did a carbon clean the a week before ?

[NOCODE]

Well, no it would be ok after a week, but then again im getting so used to the problem it feels like its never good.
:confused:

[BootySlap]

I tried cleaning the white buildup in the distributor cap but it didnt really help although i didnt get much off.
It seems as this problem can have many solutions being carbon clean, egr valve, fuel filter, distributor cap, spark plugs, etc etc.

Goin to ultra tune for hopefully a major service soon to see if i can get the damn problem fixed !

[xlnsss]

i think you will find that most times each car has a specific way of fixing this problem, but it is amazing how so many have this problem and it hasn't been fixed yet :(

i did a major service at ultra tune but that didn't help, because the guy said the problem is not from the tune of the car. Anyway he blocked the EGR valve helped for a while then came back, went back again a this time he adjusted the base idle. The problem went away for a longer period but still came back.

This has led me to believe a few options exist, take the car to nissan and see if they know how to fix this "COMMON" problem by hooking the car up to their ECU scanner as i am not sure if the Ultra tune consult is the same as the nissan one.

Thinking it might be a software problem because once the ECU has readjusted and learned to the new conditions ie: no EGR or diff base idle the problem reoccurs.

I dont know but can you upgrade the firmware in a cars ECU ????

[BootySlap]

From what I have heard the SR20's ECU ROM is non-socketed which leads me to think that for a firmware change/upgrade a whole new ECU is required or the EEPROM has to be re-soldered.

I looked into this because I wanted to know if there was a way to look at,change and program the contents of the ECU myself but just didnt seem possible!

[xlnsss]

chiptorque and some on dyno tuning should help :D

seriously there is an automotive place out at Castle Hill that was being mentioned by MikeG on the egroup this guy is supposed to be a nissan specialist maybe he can help.

[dan]

Originally posted by BootySlap
From what I have heard the SR20's ECU ROM is non-socketed

yes, you are correct.. if you get a custom ecu remap from chiptorque they need to solder in a daughterboard..

[BootySlap]

ill go to ultra tune first

then if symptoms persist i might try a specialist :)

[Spectrix]

Hmmm... might need full motec exhaust and trim down the nos timing hahahah

[xlnsss]

guys I am not 100% that the problem is the ECU, but i guess it could be ? What else could it be ?





btw: Neeeesan SR20 are hard to come by during race wars :D

[BootySlap]

I dont think its ECU because i recently just reset my ECU and the problem was still there?

[xlnsss]

the other thing i was thinking it could be was the TPS the throttle position sensor as these are also common in causing this problem mechanic adjusted this as well but also came back.

The TPS is there to tell the ECU how hard you have your foot on the accelerator. Also related to soft/hard idle.

[jasssper]

i was very convinced it was all those problems, because my car was bogging like crap all u need to do is either get a new distributor cap or scrape the white build up on the connectors in the cap itself,
i scraped it out and drove alot better, then i replaced my distrib cap and the problem was gone.
this also happened to a griends corolla twin cam and a lancer
Cheers
Jasper

[MPC]

My car was also bogging and almost stalling. I blocked the EGR off and this helped a lot, but the problem came back. I unblocked it and just left it open to the air and the problem went away. Problem came back. I blocked it again problem went away but has since come back. I'm gettin pretty :mad: with it. Must try the distrib cap one though, thanks jasssper...

[jasssper]

No worries MPC

Just try the scraping of the connectors because i did it to my friends lancer last week and she now loves me (hehe) cos it dosent drive like shit anymore
so hopefully its the same problem and it fixes what you have

Good luck
Jasper

[NOCODE]

Very good idea, I went to nissan to get them to fix it and they found no bad codes and all they did was to a inlet flush clean, cost about $100 but did nothing to fix the problem.
I have asked varios dealers but they know nothing and want your car to try to find it, but will end up taking forever and charging you heaps.

[BootySlap]

jasssper did you manage to scrape all the buildup off back to bare metal?

Because i scraped a lot of the buildup off with a screwdriver but its still covered in white which i cant remove and it didnt end up making a difference.

I guess ill just get a brand newy and see how it goes!

[NOCODE]

i got the stuff off ok but it dosent make B all difference!
most dizzy caps do this.

[jasssper]

didnt realise it dosent work for anyone else, with pulsars.

i had scraped it to bare metal and worked alot better but didnt last long then just got a new dist cap and now is fine

[NOCODE]

how much was the new cap worth?
I might give it a go.
How long have you had the dizzy cap for ?

[kamikaze]

Guys when you buy a new disp cap and try it can you tell me how it go's ??

[jasssper]

The caps r $60 at nissan
I think $35 for bosch one at repco

, the reason i replaced it quickly is because i got it real cheap ($9) so if u wanna spend the cash it helped me ;)
I ended up getting the bosch one which are as good as genuine nissan

Let me know if u get one tell me if it hepled???

cheers
Jasper

[kamikaze]

Oi stop spamming this Thread and gimme answers :P

Moderator Edit: Agreed. There is a fair bit of useful information in this thread.. I just deleted a few off-topic posts to keep it straight forward and easy to read.. this is a pretty common problem for Pulsars so hopefully we'll be able to refer to this thread as a FAQ. No hard feelings toward anyone who's posts I deleted, just wanted a cleaner read.

[Tephra]

Well im sick of that problem too guys, my motor has done 235k so im seriously considering sticking a DET in. New motor new ECU so if the problem is still there im going to get someone to burn my car :) hehehe

just kidding.

D.

[BootySlap]

kamikaze we havent got one final solution yet. It seems to differ from car to car but perhaps the most succesful solution has been the new distributor cap!

[kamikaze]

Yes i relise this. That why i posted can someone tell me how changing the disp cap effects there car. If it fixs the problem etc.

But got no Response, as my disp cap "looks" fairy new so no point changing it.

[jasssper]

i may look new but check the actual metal conductors, if it begins to ware the side of the conductor will sink and it will look like the section of the conductor has been scooped out (only slightly)
then that means it is totally warn

[WSSSUP]

As for bogging, Get a new dizzi cap, and plug up your egr valve with a screw or ball bearing.

Check all sparkie leads, sparkplugs, petrol filter, and ya oil filter.
All these can contribute to bogging ya beast down.


Cheers
Bonemachine

[jasssper]

Boney
Do u know how to block the egr ????
if so can ya tell me how mate or even if u have any spare time show me how 2 do it, im getting scared because i just drove my car then and i had a small bog in second gear so it might not all b the distri cap!!!(permanantly anyway}
ts the first time ive had bog since dizzi cap and ive had cap for about 2 weeks :( :mad:

[kamikaze]

With blocking the EGR Valve i noticed on the se-r.net with the egr clean they said as a "test" block it to see if yyour problem go's away if so the clean should fix it.

But Do we know for sure If we block this valve that it is Safe to do ??? As i am sure it is there for a reason.

[jasssper]

from what i know bonemachines mechanic actually did it so .... hopefully it is safe
Well lets look at the egr here:

How do we block it?
How do you clean it?
Or do we keep it blocked?

Hopefully that may be the solution i have tried everything else but i think the bog is coming back .. Grrrrrrrrr
but not as near as what it was

[BootySlap]

EGR valve = Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve

just lowers combustion temperatures to stop harmful emissions. plugged mine with a screw once but didnt have too much of an effect ill do it again sometime to test it more thoroughly.

[MPC]

I blocked it like this....

Cut the rubber pipe between the BPT and EGR in half. Stick a plug (I used those little plastic plugs from the sprinkler system) in one end of each half. Whack em back on and there you are......

Make sure they are air tight by using a syringe to force water in the open end. If no water gets through then they are air tight.

I used tape to do this once and the car ran heaps better for about 2 days. Then it started running crap again, so I checked under the bonnet. The tape had come loose and it was unblocked again (by the air pressure). I blocked it up with some new tape and all was fine.

I am thinking that my rubber plugs have started to leak and thats why the problem has come back for me. Will check em on the weekend.

PS. I have checked and my BPT valve is blocked.

[pulsatorsss]

You could try disconnecting both battery terminals and connecting for 5 minutes as I know some ecu's have capacitors to store power which then stores computer glitches. I had the problem bad once until i connected terminals together than adjusted base idle. Now i only have problem occassionally when cold.

[WSSSUP]

Originally posted by jasssper
Boney
Do u know how to block the egr ????
if so can ya tell me how mate or even if u have any spare time show me how 2 do it, im getting scared because i just drove my car then and i had a small bog in second gear so it might not all b the distri cap!!!(permanantly anyway}
ts the first time ive had bog since dizzi cap and ive had cap for about 2 weeks :( :mad:


Come round on the weekend bud, We'll block it up and see how it goes.

Cheers
Bonemachine

[pulsatorsss]

EGR valve also stabilizes combustion chamber temperature for longer engine durability so i wouldnt touch that.

[jasssper]

Boney
thanks mate sounds like a plan

And thanks MPC and pulsatorsss
ill try a few things with boney on the weekend

Cheers
Jasper

[kamikaze]

Yes i agreee Pulstorsss I knew it couldn't of been safe if it isn't blocked in the first place. Because the BPT is blocked from Manufactor.

Yes as i though, i will leave it be because i want my engine to Last FOREVER! :P

[NOCODE]

yeah blocking the EGR valve is good,
Power is better and bog is gone,
you do use more fuel though.
It may be bad for the engine life but then i can bite the bullet and get a VVL.:devil:

[WSSSUP]

The good old Egr valve.

Whats it there for?

To be honest its only there to meet EPA regulations. All it does is recirculate spent gasses back through the manifold, during low manifold vacuum condition.

Preventing this process, by plugging it with a screw or ball bearing, only enhances engine performance.
You could rip the pipe right off, and drive around without it, but not a good idea if you get pulled over by the police and they have a looksie at your engine.

Blocking up the valve allows the engine to take in the right mixture of fuel and air, and not exhaust gas.

If anything, its better for your engine.

I used to think the same until my good friend, (import mechanic) who works on my car with me, plugged that sucker up.

Now my idle is as smooth as ever, and not a hint of boging anywhere.


Im not saying this is the solution for everyone with a boging or a rough idle problem, as many things can contribute to this.

But i personaly think its a myth saying that your car engine wont last as long, because you plugged your Egr valve.


Cheers dudes
Bonemachine

:thumbsup:

[kamikaze]

Sure, Why not :) longest without a final answer :) Because someone said they tried blocking it and that worked for al ittle bit then it stopped working. SO I HAVE No Idea atm :) i will prob try blocking it up.

[WSSSUP]

This thread is gettin pretty big:D


Kamikaze, it all comes down to trial and error mate.
What worked for some wont work for others, plus we all have different opinions on the way to go about fixing shit on cars.

The best way is to take it all in and try it all.

You'll fix it mate, good luck:thumbsup:

[Spectrix]

Ok so is blocking the valve likely to cause any probems other than slightly worse emissions?
Does it really decrease fuel econ.?
Cause if it stops shit from building up in the intake and increases performance then I might try it myself.
Which pipe should we be blocking exactly?

[WSSSUP]

Will post some pics, doing it to Jasspers car tomorrow.

I dont think you'll notice any difference in fuel consumption.


Cheers
Bonemachine

[bio]

I had a similar problem a while ago, the car just needed a really good service and a tune up.

ps. If any of you guys closer to Hornsby need a quality service, try Eastside Automotive at Hornsby, round the corner from Bob Jane, the guy mainly services euro's but has a racing history at bathurst etc, he knows N14 Pulsars backwards and the Nissan Service centre is just up the road. He gets genuine Nissan parts really cheap and wont **** you around. A genuine nice guy thats always willing to give you advice and ideas. Cash will see 10% off :)

[Fahootie]

I've had the hesitation problem at low revs for a while, I've had the injectors cleaned, several tune ups, cleaned the dizzy, changed the sparkies, still had the annoying hesitation. Finally took it to ABS Mt Ommaney, and they said that it was a common problem with SR20's (don't we know it) and promptly changed my spark plug leads to a new set of Bosch Super sports. I was skeptical at first, so we agreed that if the problem wasn't fixed ($100+ leads) that they would swap my old ones back in. Well, happy to report that at this early stage (just driving home from workshop and in to work this morning) I have not noticed any more bogging/hesitation and mine would always choke at around 2k revs.

So you may wanna try the same deal, its a quick 5 minute job.

Dan - BTW they fixed the other problem that I told you about on IRC, free of charge.

[BootySlap]

Whoa looks like you got a winner ! Must try that! Im not sure how old my leads are but they 'look' ok does that make any difference or is it because internally they are worn ?

[kamikaze]

Fahootie i dunno if you can do this for me but, can you ask them if it "has" to be the super bosch leads or Just new leads eg Nissan Leads.

[AWK666]

I know this is a bit of a strange idea, but i had the same problem a while back with the Revs floating between <500 and 1500 and in some cases completely stalling when changing gears. Didnt know what it was, took it to several Mechanincs and eventually Ultra Tune told me the Air Flow Meter had Bought the farm. $900 brand New from Nissan (**** that) got a Second hand one from a Wreaker for $175, No worries. The Revs Still occasionally drop to about 600 but bounce right back up. No Lag in Acelleration, Better Fuel economy and an all round happier Donk. Once again, its strange, but it fixed My problem. :D

[jasssper]

I changed the spark plug leads to super sport Bosch ones too but only helped with top end smoothness and didnt help with my hesitation

I have now done spark plugs, leads, Dizzy cap and i just blocked my egr valve and the egr stopped the hesitation problem permanantly

Cheers
Jasper

[kamikaze]

I know the leads wasn't a fix !! :) its gotta be something with the egr.

I'll try Blocking the EGR Valve.

This Problem is GAY :) :gay:
stupid sr20de we all need sr20det's damit! :rockin:

[Fahootie]

Fair enough Jasssper, as i said it is only early days, I've driven the car only twice (and not very far), but I couldn't detect the problem so I put that down to the leads being replaced. I'll drive it some more and post an update.

someone should do a tech article on blocking the egr and post some pics. I dunno what it even looks like.

[Piz]

Just to add more complication the problem my car (N13) does it as well.

Any ideas on the EGR for my engine?
:D

[BootySlap]

Ok stuff this I will do everything at once

Fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor, spark leads, block egr valve and carbon clean!

Anyone have a rough estimate on how much all that will cost? (Carbon clean at Ultra tune - $169, block EGR - free, the rest im not too sure)

[jasssper]

This weekend or even tomorrow or thursday i will take some photos on how to block your egr valve. I will write it up so you can see each step.
takes 5 minutes and will NOT do any damage to your car what so ever.

If you hear its not safe for your engine to block your egr, well its a load of crap. The Egr is there to lover fuel emmisions, it recycles exhaust air into the manifold to make less pollution or some crap. All it is is an EPA issue but if you block it with a bearing or screw it is un noticable.

cheers
Jasper:thumbsup:

[jasssper]

Originally posted by BootySlap
Ok stuff this I will do everything at once

Fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor, spark leads, block egr valve and carbon clean!

Anyone have a rough estimate on how much all that will cost? (Carbon clean at Ultra tune - $169, block EGR - free, the rest im not too sure)

Fuel filter $15 - 20
Dizzy Nissan one is $60 or Bosch is like $35 - 40
Spark leads (Bosch Super sports inductive leads. Nearly $100
Block egr $a ball bearing
Carbon clean bout $140 - 170 (depends where you go)

[WSSSUP]

Originally posted by jasssper


The Egr is there to lover fuel emmisions, it recycles exhaust air into the manifold to make less pollution or some crap. All it is is an EPA issue but if you block it with a bearing or screw it is un noticable.

cheers
Jasper:thumbsup:

Hmmmmm where did I hear that from?

:rockin:

Hahahahahahahahaha

[jasssper]

Well boney i learn so much from you i cant help telling others about these things
your so great:wave:

hehehe :Flipa:

ciao Jasper

[WSSSUP]

What could i do.

I offered you the red pill, but you decided on the blue pill, and I showed you how deep the SSS hole would go.


You have learnt much, my young Jedi Night.
It is time for you to to be set free upon the world.


Gooo!, And may your SSS guide you, to the land of ABS and Electric windows, ohhh did i say that.:angel:



:rockin:

[kamikaze]

Guys there is a sort of How-to on blocking your EGR Vavle on

http://www.se-r.net/car_info/problems/index.html#Surge%20and%20hesitation

Its a how-to do a EGR clean and it has pictures of the vavle so you can basically figure it out :) Piece of Piss.

[NOCODE]

The pipe that connects between the 2 gold colored round things (EGR Valves) you can just pull it out but its better to block it so no one sees it if you are pulledover. you are basically stopping the vaccum valve from letting exhaust gas in, not good for emisssions but great for performance.:evilgrin:

[WSSSUP]

Heres another tip,

Reset your computer. Disconnect the terminals from ya battery, and reconect em. This will reset your car puter.

Drive around pretty hard for the next few days. Your computer will figure out your driving style.


Cheers
Bonemachine:thumbsup:

[NOCODE]

should you do this with the pipe connected or blocked? wadda u think?:eek:

[bio]

Id assume a proper throttle body clean would be done in conjunciton with injectors, taking all the parts off and ultrasonically bathing them. I understand pulsar injectors are quite a tricky design in comparison with other smaller cars like them, hard to know whether cleaning them will give any performance benefit prior to cleaning them.

[WSSSUP]

Originally posted by sik sss
should you do this with the pipe connected or blocked? wadda u think?:eek:

Either way it wont matter mate.

When I bought my SSS, it was a little sluggish, didnt respond to a bit of hard acceleration, and was bogging a fair bit.

I pretty much did a full service,
Replaced,
Oil
Petrol Filter
Oil Filter
Spark Plugs

Ripped out my Box filter and chucked in a Pod filter.
Blocked up the egr valve
And reset the car computer.

Drove it pretty hard for about 4 days.

Car has been running great for 2 months, No bogging at all.

:thumbsup:

[NOCODE]

Well i blocked, reset and drove hard (as always) and no bogging, well a liitle sumtimes, but on the whole very good and it goes to boot better. :D

[kamikaze]

Well i blocked it and same problem Just not as much but its still there DAMIT!!

[mr-n14]

hey about the ECU prob,
well i had a big prob with mine about 5 months ago,
it was bogging, and blowing smoke, (a bit) running like shit, and i got my mechanic to reset my ECU, not by diconnecting the battery, but by resetting it doing it via the ignition, and its been sweat as ever since, at first ppl told me i needede a new ECU, but its going good...try it...

also, does anyone know how much it cost to remap ur ECu from chiptorque?
i went in a aus sss not so long ago, and this one is pretty much stock, ecept it revs out heaps faster, the owner told me he got the ECU wired up, in which they short a circuit on the board, which makes it rev quick, now, i dont know about this, but it sure did rev out so much faster than ive seen a sss do b4...and he had 17s on it ?? anyone hear of this?

[Fahootie]

Originally posted by Fahootie
, as i said it is only early days, I've driven the car only twice (and not very far), but I couldn't detect the problem so I put that down to the leads being replaced. I'll drive it some more and post an update.



Update: new leads makes my car run a lot better, but I still get the bloody hesitation problem. New leads can't hurt tho....

[kamikaze]

Reseting ECU via ignition, i Guess we can't do that our self??

Have to go to a auto electri... ?

[mr-n14]

kamikaze: Reseting ECU via ignition, i Guess we can't do that our self??

Have to go to a auto electri... ?


Ok, i dont know if ur being sarcastic, but, to reset it by the ignition u have to follow a few steps, apparently turn it on and off and do what it says...(ignition) i think its in the pulsar manual not sure....
ill find out but if u want...

[kamikaze]

well I don't no and you don't no so why m i being sarcastic ???

i don't have a manual yet.

[NOCODE]

I have done the EGR cleanout as discussed on the SER.net page and im quite happy with the results, where i had severe bogging it has gone, just by shoving a bot of 8G cable and some carby cleaner douwn the egr tube. now i dont need to block it off to remove the problem. ill do this every service as it is cheaper than a carbon clean by heaps.
I also found my pertrol usage was higher when i blocked the EGR, has anyone else found this, I put it down to it giving better performance when blocked and my right foot taking adventage of this, but i may be wrong.:) :D :cool: :thumbsup:

[cargle]

a question , I have the hesitation as well, but it dissappears after I have driven around for a couple of minutes, is this the same as you guys, or is it all the time.

The bigger problem I have though is an erratic idle especially when cold, the other night it got real bad, the car started and stalled immediately, started then stalled immeditatly it did this about 4 times before it finally held its revs and I was able to drive around for a little while.

[NOCODE]

That stalling is due to your idle soleniod being gummed up and not working properly, get it out and cleaned and you will be ok, cant remember its name but that is probably the problem.
It is hard to get to and is held in by phillips head screws, i got a mechanic to do it.:thumbsup:

[cargle]

cool, thanks for that mate, I'll give that a go and see how I go.

[Stusse]

Hey Guys

Just a suggestion but if your getting flat spots and dead spots in your cars REV range then its more than likely you havent cleaned the throttle body correctly, if this avenue has been addressed properly then you could have a faulty set of leads.


Cheers, Steve :wave:

[NOCODE]

Nah stusse this problem is a common sr-20 thing , i put new leads in and it did not help, the problem is at one point only. though putting SPIRALCORE leads is a good thing for any car, a must do:Poke:

[BootySlap]

leads, plugs, distributor cap & rotor, ECU reset, plug EGR, air filter, fuel filter and injector clean all helped but did not completely fix my hesitation argh!

[Tephra]

BS, sorry i mean BootySlap :)

did u try adjusting your TPS?

also im going todo a TB clean this w/e...

has anyone done it b4? is it recommended to take the TB of the car? do i need new gaskets and so on?

d.

[BootySlap]

No im pretty sure TPS will not effect my hesitation at 3000rpm. Could be wrong.

Just take off the butterfly plate and clean it well with carby/tb cleaner.

I think I did mine too well because now my throttle sticks (needs a bit of WD40 perhaps on the edge of the plate)

[NOCODE]

have all u guys done the egr pipe clean?
that is the most effective thing to do, without blocking the egr.

[BootySlap]

Yes but blocking the EGR altogether will give you the same effect as cleaning the EGR, although admittingly does increase emissions and reduce efficiency.

[Tephra]

DET for me, so no EGR...


d.

[BootySlap]

The joys of a DET....I wish I could afford the insurance :(

[NOCODE]

ok for u nat aspirated sss how many k's do u get on a tank?
I get about 300 blocked egr
and about 350 not blocked?:bawlink:

[BootySlap]

roughly...
400 blocked
450 blocked and PULP

although I try not to let the tank get that low !

[Tephra]

i just did a test last nite, 356 k's for 39 L...

[NOCODE]

booty slap how do you get such good economy? long trips?

[BootySlap]

Well those figures are running the tank near empty (not good) so I presume your figures are like tephras and near the 35 - 40 L mark.

But yes my trips are mainly half hour ones on the freeway.

[NOCODE]

mmmm mine are all short and usually driving hard too.
lead foot = $$$
at least its fun

[PhilSSStevenson]

Nulon has a new product out (actually called throttle body cleaner) - not your carb cleaner stuff... Its more expensive, but I thought I'd give it a go... with the old toothbrush, plus almost a can of the stiff {i see dead people} - opps I meant stuff... into the throttle body (note: don't start your engine while your spraying the stuff in) - I prefer as much to disolve first before the donk sucks on it!...


There WAS a slight difference... the engine felt slightly sweeter (if ya know what I mean)

:rockin:

[kamikaze]

but it still boggs! :)

[xlnsss]

idle solenoid ?

:confused:

[BootySlap]

idle solenoid hmm Im willing to try anything...where is that located?

Actually I might just take it into Nissan for a looksy!

[xlnsss]

i think that is what i will end up doing just take it to nissan they should know :confused: . Even though they charge an arm and a leg.

[kamikaze]

what do they do to this idle solenoid... ??

what they replace it ?

[cargle]

apparently it is able to be cleaned, however depending on the state of it it may need replacing.

[kamikaze]

is it checked by nissan when they do a tune or

When they do a service..

Or not at all ?

[NOCODE]

the solenoid in question is under the intake manifold and is gold in colour looks , and about the size of a roll of 35mm film held in with phillips head screws, this if glugged up will stall the engine.
Ill try to find my reciept when i got it fixed, dont go to nissan i have found them pretty clueless and expensive.
:rolleyes:

[Tephra]

what does it actually do?

[kamikaze]

So changing that fix the bogging problem...

Because the stalling at a lights problem just tell nissan that you are having that problem and get a tune and they fix it dunno if they did the solednoid thingo :) but it fixed the stalling @ lights etc.

[BootySlap]

Did it fix the bogging kamikaze ?

[Lonx]

The whole unit that the IAA bolts onto might remove (this is the case on the CA18-DE) seperately from the plenum. Its purpose is to allow a certain amount of air to flow in even when the throttle is completely closed. So basically this also sets your idle speed, as the computer will detect lean conditions and add more fuel, which raises engine speed (RPM).

[kamikaze]

no didn't touch the bogging problem :( only stopped it from jsut about stalling at lights etc some times.

[NOCODE]

OK GUYS

the thing that stops the car stalling is the FICV
Fast Idle Control Valve.

clean the sucker out and no more stalling.

more on the EGR cleanout,

mine has some bogging back, but not at the same rev points as before, and it is a lot less frequent than wat it waz.
At least the DIY cleanout is effective and cheaper than a mechanic doing it.
:thumbsup: :)

[kamikaze]

well thats not the main problem :)

but cool

what about the damn bogging thou.

[jasssper]

my friends pulsar is now doing it too

im sick of the bogging also but alot of pple have said to get the air mass sencor tested and get it replaced or whatever, the dude that told me this to back it up works for HSV and the racing teams, he knows his shit and sait 99% chance its the air mass sencor.

i just havent got time to get it checked out

Jasper

[kamikaze]

hmm well i got a tune @ Nissan and i asked if he check my 02 sensor and he said yea he check it because he knew on this engine they seem to stop working but he said it was fine.

[BootySlap]

So has the bogging stopped? and which Nissan did u get it tuned at?

[kamikaze]

Nah bogging still there so its not 02 Sensor.

Was john robinson nissan Rockdale.

Also he showed me all the settings and shit on the console ( little hand held puter they plug into my car puter and tune it with)

[jasssper]

Originally posted by kamikaze
hmm well i got a tune @ Nissan and i asked if he check my 02 sensor and he said yea he check it because he knew on this engine they seem to stop working but he said it was fine.

thats the O2 sencor, im talking about the air mass sencor, air mass determines how much air is forced into the piston thingys for the right amount of fuel to b pumped in to the injectors.

i noticed it runs rich on my fuel mixture gauge at low revs so there may not be enough air pushed in to burn up all the fuel (aparently a common problem), which then causes the jumping.


hopefully thats the problem

Jasper:rolleyes:

[xlnsss]

kamikaze the 02 sensor is different to the air flow sensor that jasper mentioned. The 02 sensor is attached to the exhaust manifold and the air flow sensor is located after the intake pipe. Air flow sensors are expensive to replace.

edit: Jasper got in b4 me :)

[jasssper]

nigghay

HA HA

jasp:thumbsup:

[kamikaze]

i will get mine checked.
Air flow sensor is that the correct term ?

[jasssper]

yeh or air mass sensor

[BootySlap]

argh mines boggin like a bitch atm.......mostly only when cold !

[kamikaze]

yea mine is when its cold.

[Fahootie]

yep...me too olnly when cold, once it warms up it goes well.

[Pulsating]

I, like everyone else, have the same hesitation problem around 1500 to 3000 rpm. Have had it on different dynos while doing it. First guy said it was leaning out during that rev range (had sensor up exhaust). After that did everything that has been suggested so far leads, plugs, injectors, carbon clean, egr, O2 sensor, distributor, fuel pump etc etc etc. Nothing has been able to fix problem.

Recently had it on another dyno were straight away the guy said that is does it when it is cold due to exessive fuel (obviously this contradicts the first guy who said it was leaning out).

So, my question is to all who have this problem, do any of you have an aftermarket computer or performance chip where the fuel mixtures have been altered on a dyno? If you do, do you still have the hesitation? Did it stop or is it still the same after the new computer/chip?

Was thinking of getting a Unichip to piggyback my ECU so I could alter the air/fuel mixtures. Have heard elsewhere that the SR20 runs rich from the factory.

[jasssper]

well that sorta confirms what the problem is now
so what do we dooooooooo

fuel mixture and air mass is it now

hmmm

[kamikaze]

So the air mass sensor.. ?

[Spectrix]

- It's commonly know as the AFM or air flow meter.

Yes Sr20s run a little rich and they are some small gains to be found by leaning air/fuel ratio via a piggyback ecu or resistor setup. You need to be careful though, leaning out the mixture too much causes excess heat and increases the risk of detonation and engine damage.

:bawlink:

[kamikaze]

ahh So Nissan can check that ?

[kamikaze]

i know when thye do a tune they check how rich the engine is running and the fuel mix i think... but they don't check your AFM so i get them to Check my AFM OUT ?

[WSSSUP]

Another tip to try.


Punch a hole in your EGR valve hose.

Can try with it plugged up or not plugged up.


Bonesss

[BootySlap]

Wouldnt removing the EGR valve hose altogether and pluggin each nozzle up be even better ?

arghh hesitation......pissing me off!

[Pulsating]

Not sure if anyone else has done this yet (if you have what was the result), but I have spoken to a service manager in Nissan Australia (head office). He is going to speak to some engineers about this problem (hasn't heard of it before). Said it sounds like an ECU problem.

Also does this occur all year models? I have a 92.

Have also tried to find some form of contact (preferably email) for Nissan in Japan. No luck yet. Nissan Australia only have contacts in the shipping section.

Will keep everyone posted. Nissan said they would let me know whether or not they have a solution.:thumbsup:

[jasssper]

good stuff mate,

good to hear ya doing that because not only 92 pulsars do it and also its the 1.6 litre one that does it too, 2 that i know do it and it sux,

hope to hear a good outcome of the problem.

Cheers
Jasper

[Pulsating]

not only 92 pulsars do it and also its the 1.6 litre one that does it too, 2 that i know do it and it sux

What year are the 1.6s? I assume they are injected.

[jasssper]

yeh thats right they are injected, 2 friends have a gli and lx and both N14 and has the same problem

[puls8er]

yeah mate. mines a 92 model and it does it., i had my injectors cleaned and its only half as bad now but its still there none the less

[QIKRNU]

my 93 jap spec does it also, not too bad 'yet' though

[Pulsating]

Has anyone tried replacing the Coolant Temperature Sensor? Was told by a guy at Autosport Engineering (NSW I think) that was has seen a lot of SR20 Silvias with stalling and rough driving problems where this is the cause. Said it is a common problem.

He said it is fairly easy to replace. Costs around $50 at a guess. Suggested I should replace it anyway due to klms (160K).

Am getting done this weekend $65 for sensor, labour ??? (approx. half hour). Will let everyone know on Monday what the outcome was.

[kamikaze]

Cool keep us posted :)

[Pulsating]

Replaced the Coolant Temperature Sensor on the weekend. No luck. Still has the hesitation. Hopefully Nissan will get back to me soon with some suggestions. Thinking that there will never be a fix.:mad:

[jasssper]

yeh thats what my worry is but soooo many pulsars have this problem, someone has got to know in the industry

grrrrrrrrrr
jasper

[BootySlap]

Just a note...

After a nice run on the freeway at 140kmh constant for 30min, the next morning starting and driving cold there seemed to be a lot less hesitation than starting the car after having not driven it for say 3 days.

The biggest problem seems to occur under normal driving while cold, changing from second to third gear it doesnt pick up for a second then it suddenly surges.

[Pulsating]

[Thinking that there will never be a fix.:mad

Was looking through some other SR20 sites and it seems that owners in other countries have the same problems and they cannot fix it either. This confirms my above thought. Damm Nissans incompetance.:mad:

[jasssper]

fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuccccccccccccccck

i really wanna cure for my car it drives me nuts sometimes, u would expect nissan to actuslly know hey!!!

oh well it may come soon

[BootySlap]

Im tempted to buy a newer SR20DE motor and change it over!

[Pulsating]

When I spoke to the service manager at Nissan Australia he said that there may not be any of the engineers who worked on the Aussie built versions still working for Nissan. This doesn't explain though why the Jap versions do it as well.

I did find phone numbers for english speaking departments for Nissan in Japan, but there are only for people inside of Japan. Was hoping they may have an idea. Must be a design fault in a part that is used.

[Fahootie]

Originally posted by BootySlap
Im tempted to buy a newer SR20DE motor and change it over!

...and then the new motor will do the same thing...

I took my car to a place here in Brissy and the guy at the front desk said that they had a mechanic that worked for Nissan for 7 years, owned an NXR for X number of years, had been to Japan for training on SR20 motors and I thought "Brilliant! Problem fixed!" but he had no clue. I even took the Nissan expert for a ride with me to show him what was happening and he changed the leads, and while that made the car a lot smoother, the hesitation is still there.
....so much for a Nissan trained mechanic being able to fix the problem.

someones gotta know wtf is happening

[Pulsating]

I think we need to find whoever programmed the ECU.

Was speaking to an EFI specialist and he was telling me about a problem with VT (I think) commodores. He happened to be at a seminar and spoke to the guy who programmed the ECU. Said it was a bug in the programming that couldn't be fixed, however, he did know of ways to trick the ECU into doing something different to fix the problem.

EFI specialist has been able to fix every VT (or whatever model) that has that problem.

Seems like something similar here.

Still haven't heard though if anyone has this problem and also has a modified ECU. If the air/fuel has been modified it shouldn't do it. I as told mine was leaning out during that rev range (gas analyser up the exhaust) whilst on the dyno.

[kamikaze]

well How about we ask someone who is using a new ecu :)

[Pulsating]

Originally posted by kamikaze
well How about we ask someone who is using a new ecu :)

I put that question out twice in this thread. No one has responded. I personally don't know anyone that has a modified ECU, but if anyone does please check with them and post results. Cheers.

[salted]

I have had this problem since I got the car. Interestingly it doesn't seem to happen if I go harder on the accelerator (perhaps because I'm avoiding the 2-3k rpm trouble spot?). It behaves itself once warmed up, although the length of time this takes does vary.

When I asked my mechanic about it, he suggested an injector clean. He described this as removing the engine from the fuel system and running it on a machine that cycled some special cleaning fluid through everything. Is this the same thing as others have mentioned?

Unfortunately I'm out of cash till next month so I can't get it done for a while, but if nothing has been resolved here by then I'll give it a go.

salt

[Pulsating]

Originally posted by salted

When I asked my mechanic about it, he suggested an injector clean. He described this as removing the engine from the fuel system and running it on a machine that cycled some special cleaning fluid through everything. Is this the same thing as others have mentioned?
salt

Unless you have never cleaned your injectors before and you have done 100Klms plus, I would save your money. It would be very unlikely that it would fix the problem. Seems like everyone has at some stage cleaned their injector to no success.

I had my cleaned ($150) made no noticeable difference at all.

[Spectrix]

My Dad's liberty used to have this problem, happened only when the engine was cold.. usually noticed it taking off after the give way sign 100m down the road.
Thing was I used to give it a boot without warming the engine up at all.. (I was young and silly) poor car :bawlink:

I don't notice this problem in the SSS, but I never leave the driveway untill the temp sensor has at least reached the first notch.
Do you guys warm your cars up at all?

[Pulsating]

Originally posted by Spectrix

Do you guys warm your cars up at all?

Not really, mabye a minute. However, I am very kind to my engine when cold generally rev to about 4000 max. If I did take to time to fully warm it up the problem would go, but I can't afford to sit for 10 mins in the morning doing so.

[dan]

pulsating,

could you please let me know who you contacted about this? i might try giving a national nissan service office a ring.. there are quite a few of us here, i'm hoping they'll sit up and take notice..

:)

- dan

[Pulsating]

Sorry, I didn't take down his name. Wish I did though as he still hasn't called back.

I call the Melbourne Nissan Aust. number and asked to speak to someone in relation to a technical mechanical query. Was put through to a customer service number where I had to leave my name and number. A service manager called me back with half an hour.

He said he would call me back whether or not he found an answer. Probably did nothing at all. Said that the only people (engineers) that would have known has more than likely left Nissan.

[BootySlap]

I let her warm up a few mins til the needle rises. Even when the needle is midway, the hesitation still doesnt completely stop until been ive booted it around a bit.

[kamikaze]

Same.

This Problem Pisses me off FFS!

I wonder if its ECU damit :) Some upgrade there ECu or borrow someones haltech or microtech or something...

[Pulsating]

Originally posted by kamikaze
Same.

I wonder if its ECU damit :) Some upgrade there ECu or borrow someones haltech or microtech or something...

I'm sure mine has to be ECU related. As I have mentioned before, it was leaning out on the dyno whilst hesitating. If I could alter the air/fuel during that rev range surely it would fix it.

I don't want to waste money on a Unichip (wouldn't get a non-modifiable chip) as I have read/heard many differing comments on power gains from them. The power gain would be my main reason for getting it. I can live with the hesitation if I have to, even though it is annoying.:mad: $1200 for the Unichip would want to give a reasonable gain for me to do it.

[kamikaze]

Guys check this out and tell me wtf he is talking about so i can try it.

http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23249

[kamikaze]

Hey guys i was reading the sr20de forum and i noticed someone said d/c your 02 sensor and it doesn't bogg etc.

SO i done it and it didn't bog :)

Therefore i need a new 02 sensor everyone try it.

The 02 sensor is at the front of the engine on the standard headers, follow the wires to u see a connector or whatever.

Pull it off then start the car and drive it and notice no bogging :)

[salted]

Originally posted by kamikaze
The 02 sensor is at the front of the engine on the standard headers, follow the wires to u see a connector or whatever.
Do you have a picture for those of us (ie me) who aren't exactly sure what you mean?

I took a wild guess and disconnected the thing that looked most like what you described. Went for a spin around the block and experienced no hesitation whatsoever! Plugged it back in, round the block again and only found very slight hesitation. The engine was still warm from a decent drive and sitting in the sun, so these results are inconclusive. I will get a better idea going to work tomorrow morning.

I had a look at the sr20de forum myself and found this thread (http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25250). The main concerns expressed were regarding fuel economy and potential harm to the engine. What effects does disconnecting the o2 sensor have on these things?

salt

[kamikaze]

is none :) no effects it jsut means u need a new 02 sensor i done it when my engine was dead cold in the morning before i started it :)

[salted]

In that case, why do you need a new one? That is, if disconnecting it has no negative effects, why should you replace it? Can you just leave it out?

salt

[kamikaze]

well the yanks on the sr20deforum rekon its fine to leave out.

Personally i don't want to leave it out as its obviously there for a reason so i would get a new 1.

[Pulsating]

kamikaze: That's great if this fixes your problem. Problem for me however is that I have already replaced my O2 sensor a few months ago.

I would not recommend disconnecting the O2 sensor altogether as from my understanding it detects how rich or lean your mixture is and lets the ECU unjust it accordingly. An exhaust shop said that with it disconnected it can cause idle and roughness problems.

[Pulsating]

Guys, have just found out some interesting information re O2 sensors. The reason why the problem is fixed when the O2 sensor is disconnected is that the engine will run a lot richer (hence hesitation due to leaning out is gone).

This might sound great however, was just advised that besides poor fuel economy, you can stuff you cat converter. I can confirm this as I had a Lancer GSR (non turbo) that had a stuffed O2 sensor and it buggered up my cat and I had to replace both.

If you replace you O2 (as I did), I'm possitive you will still have the hesitation. I would suggest that you have an auto electrician check your sensor to see if it is working properly (mine was slow to react which is why I replaced it). If it is working find now, replacing it will be a waste of money. If it isn't working now, it may fix the problem or like me, it will still occur.

Just my thoughts.

[Zombie]

Originally posted by BootySlap
Ok just rang UltraTune Parramatta and its $169 for their carbon clean which includes throttle body clean etc..

Seems not too bad! I might go get it done in a few wks.

I Rang Ultra Tune In the Valley Brisbane and they said $218
a lot of different there

Shit

Zombie

[Pulsating]

Place in Morayfield (northside of brisbane) does it for approx $150.

[tissue]

doesnt the O2 sensor detect the amount of oxygen in the exhaust, and modifies the mixture accordingly? Cause too much oxygen in the exhaust will burn out the cat, which isnt good :)

Id suggest not disconnecting it

[BootySlap]

Ok so seems like the only way around this problem is to modify the air/fuel ratios in the ECU.

I know someone who does ECU Daughterboards that will fit the SR20DE but he doesnt have the base maps for them.

Does anyone have the base maps for the SR20 ?

[FlameBoy]

We need someone to be the test dummy....

Someone who changes his ecu and tells us the results.

Personally, i never experienced this bogging down until like 2 weeks ago. The only changes i made before it started happening was running pulp, and i put extractors on...

Once its warm its fine tho...i'm gonna agree with everyone and say its just running a little lean until its warm or something...

[kamikaze]

well mate i m going to buy a new o2 sensor and lets see if it fixs my prob.

[Pulsating]

Originally posted by FlameBoy
The only changes i made before it started happening was running pulp, and i put extractors on...


That's weird, mine started doing it after I got my exhaust done as well. I never noticed it when I first got the car (have always run it on Optimax or Ultimate fuel). I just thought it was a coincedence that it did it after the exhaust was changed.

Does anyone know if bog stock Pulsars still have the problem?

[QIKRNU]

yeh mine is stock, same problem. its not that bad on mine, and im yet to feel it on someone elses

[kamikaze]

well Mine was totally stock and it done it put cat back exhaust on and it still does it.

[kw]

Mine stopped doin that after we totally rehashed the air/fuel maps, me thinks its a problem with the standard computer, i dunno how though??

[BootySlap]

Karloss do you have the standard maps somewhere?

[kw]

Yeah ill see if i can rustle em up
my bro did the work basically all we did was dump more fuel in durin the mid range, because it feels like its a lean miss everytime, its still sluggish when cold, but no where near as bad, and doesnt do it at all when at normal operating temp

[Pulsating]

Originally posted by Karlosss
Mine stopped doin that after we totally rehashed the air/fuel maps, me thinks its a problem with the standard computer, i dunno how though??

What do you mean by "rehashed" the air/fuel? Does this mean you have a piggy back computer alowing you to alter the ratios? If not how did you do it?

[tissue]

I just plugged the EGR + BPT valves on my car. It fixed a fair bit of the bogging, but the stench that came out the exhaust...phew!:vomit:

I guess this means ill have to pull both off and give them a scrubbing over. I recommend anyone tries this, cause it only takes less than 5 mins to do. I just plugged the EGT with a silicon nipple off the hook of a coat hanger (:cool: ), and the hose with a screw.

[Pulsating]

Originally posted by tissue
I just plugged the EGR + BPT valves on my car.
I recommend anyone tries this, cause it only takes less than 5 mins to do.

I think most people have tried this already. I know I have to no avail. Didn't change things one bit. I personally don't think that this is the main cause as how is it that this is happening to Pulsars (or related cars) worldwide. Surely we all wouldn't have blocked egr systems. I still think it is ECU related (based on my own research).

Still, worth a try though. If it fixes it for some, good luck to them.

[BootySlap]

Yes im pretty sure too that is definately ECU related. Although we will see how Kamikaze goes when he gets a new O2 Sensor.

[Pulsating]

I hope he gets his old o2 senor tested first. I have already replaced mine (was slow to register changes to the ecu) and it didn't fix the problem.

[tissue]

its not that PCV valve is it? Cause I remember someone posted a thread where they said it should be replaced every 10,000ks, and no-one even knew what it was!

I asked spare parts last time I was there, and it goes for ~$45.

[Pulsating]

What does the PCV do? Does it stand for anything?

[BootySlap]

PCV Valve? The O2 sensor is the one coming out of the exhaust manifold through the head shield.

[Pulsating]

Further suggestions by Nissan:

1. has anyone had their car at Nissan and had all the sensors tested? Apparently this is done by a hand held computer that reads every sensor and gives a graph print of how they are reading. Should tell you if any of the sensors have a problem.

2. Does anyone run normal unleaded (I use Optimax)? Nissan said they have seen brand new Nissans hesitate whilst using high octane fuel then running normal on normal fuel. I am going to try this next time I fill up.

[QIKRNU]

i use both optimax and cheapo fuel depending on prices.

Ok Listen Up Though

My mate is probably getting one of those daughterboards when he comes to Sydney (next week), for his 180sx. If someone can come up with the sr20de maps i might get one and we can test them out and see if it makes a diff. Alternatively someone else can come around and get em installed at the same time.

[BootySlap]

Yes i can get a daughterboard too we just need maps! anyone?

[salted]

Originally posted by Pulsating
2. Does anyone run normal unleaded (I use Optimax)? Nissan said they have seen brand new Nissans hesitate whilst using high octane fuel then running normal on normal fuel. I am going to try this next time I fill up. I have been using standard ULP for a little while and my car still hesitates, although much less when warm. I'm going to give the premium stuff a go for the next few tanks and see how I go.

salt

[kamikaze]

guys my sensor was tested @ nissan he said it was fine but.. afaik the sensors voltage should change @ different revs ?? this correct ? if so the nissan test doesn't test that.

But anyway with my o2 sensor d/c i don't get this bogging problem any more.

[tissue]

I got my car checked out using the Nissan CONSULT computer thingo for free, cause my car isnt idling correctly. All you would have to do is find a dealer or mechanic with one, and ask if you could check something out on your car.

For anyone in Brissie, I got it inspected at Cleveland Nissan, but as it was free, a 30min test took them half the day. Book in advance.

Maybe the bogging problem is your cat is blocked/stuffed? Disconnecting the O2 sensor would make the engine run richer, and burn out the cat. Perhaps the bogging is to do with a lean engine? Anyone got a connected A/F ratio meter? (/end lots of ideas)

[Pretty White]

Originally posted by sik sss
yeah blocking the EGR valve is good,
Power is better and bog is gone,
you do use more fuel though.
It may be bad for the engine life but then i can bite the bullet and get a VVL.:devil:

You guys have that ****ing EGR problem too! Geesh! We had EGR problems and 5th gear popping out of gear too!

[tissue]

We dont have the 5th gear popout (or not that im aware of), because we use different gearboxes. None of the gearboxes down here have a vlsd, whereas dont all your gearboxes have them?

[Pretty White]

Maybe your Mass Air Flow meters need regrounding fellas?

Try that. It has helped us here in the USA!

http://www.se-r.net/engine/maf_ground.html

Or

http://www.se-r.net/car_info/problems/index.html#Surge%20and%20hesitation

[BootySlap]

Thanks Pretty White but I can assure its not those problems. (May be partly though)

[Pulsating]

Originally posted by tissue
I got it inspected at Cleveland Nissan, but as it was free, a 30min test took them half the day. Book in advance.

Maybe the bogging problem is your cat is blocked/stuffed? Disconnecting the O2 sensor would make the engine run richer, and burn out the cat.

Cleveland Nissan is who suggested the fuel and computer testing. I was told it would cost $65 (1 hour work) to have sensors tested (lucky you got it done for free).

As far as the cat goes, I'm more than likely getting it replaced tomorrow as it is starting to make a rattling sound. This could be the core breaking down (its done 160klms) or it may only be a stone in the guard. Won't now until I have it looked at. If I replace it I will see if it fixes the hesitation (doubt it though). Was told you are surpose to replace the cat every 80,000klms.

Yes, disconnecting the O2 sensor will make it run rich causing. The excess unburnt fuel will stuff the cat. Would not recommend it even if it does fix the hesitation. Rather have hesitation than have to continually replace cats.

[jasssper]

i have a brand new cat atm and bogs like a dog so cant be the cat...

Other suggestion is the temperature sencor, thats what tells the computer what the engine is running cold or warm etc...

this is a good possibility because when the car bogs the fuel leans outr and its only bad when it is cold.

What do you guys reckon?

[Pulsating]

Originally posted by jasssper
Other suggestion is the temperature sencor, thats what tells the computer what the engine is running cold or warm etc...

this is a good possibility because when the car bogs the fuel leans outr and its only bad when it is cold.

What do you guys reckon?

Already replaced the temperature sensor ($100 all up). Didn't do a thing (I think I posted these details previously).

Was advised that around 100klm you should replace it any regardless.

[kamikaze]

Who said disconnecting the 02 sensor burns the cat and makes it run richer ??

The Americans said its safe to do so and they know there sr20de's...

[tissue]

umm, i said it does?

cats have a platinum mesh thingo in them, and the unburnt fuel + oxygen causes it to heat up and eventually stuffs the cat.

The O2 sensor measures the level of unburnt fuel + oxygen in the exhaust gases and modifies the mixture to prevent this from happening.

[Pulsating]

I totally agree with tisue.

As I mentioned earlier on in this posting, my Lancer had a faulty O2 sensor and stuffed my cat.

Besides this, asked any exhaust shop and they will tell you the same thing. This was confirmed again today when I was getting quotes for a new cat. They all asked if I had had my O2 sensor checked lately.

[kw]

Depends, you can get the engine calibrated without an 02 sensor cant you? i thought you could, just that it was illegal in aus coz of EPA blowin up

[BootySlap]

stuffit.

I also have disconnected the O2 sensor. It just drives so much better without it. I will be checking on my fuel economy and exhaust emissions in the mean time but as far as I know it doesnt run extraordinarily rich, the ECU just defaults to a base default air/fuel mix when it senses that the O2 sensory has been d/c.

By the way, anyone see the huge cop defecting bust in bankstown (near 7 eleven / airport) on sunday night ?

[kamikaze]

damn right!

[Pulsating]

Guys, this is really weird. Upon the advise from a service guy at Nissan Cleveland (as I previously posted), I filled up with normal BP unleaded (91 octane) rather than Ultimate (98 octane) which I normally use and guess what, no more hesitation.:rockin:

Now its only been two days so results are not fully conclusive, yet it is looking good. The only other thing I have done is a new cat on Saturday, however it was still surging on Sunday with Ultimate. Put normal ULP in on Monday and has been ok.

Will use up this tank and if it dosen't do it again will try filling up with Ultimate one more time to see if it starts hestitating again. May have to live with running normal fuel.

Day 3 now. Damm problem seems to be back.:mad: Seems to be not as bad though. Guess I can rule out fuel a fix.

[Tephra]

hrmm you can afford ulitmate??

hehe its like $1.07 here now..

stupid wars :(

I hate getting less L than $'s spent :(

oh well.

[Fahootie]

$1.07 Fark! its about 87c here in Brisvegas....and worth every cent

[Pulsating]

Originally posted by Tephra
hrmm you can afford ulitmate??

hehe its like $1.07 here now..



I have always run Ultimate (Optimax if I have to) since I have had the car (earn enough to treat my car :) ) This is the first time I have tried normal ULP.

Max I pay in .90c (around there somewhere). Normal in the .80s

[cargle]

I have always run ultimate in my car, but was running ver low on fuel the other day and had to fill up with premium instead on ultimate, I suffer from a slight case of hesitation when engine is cold , however with the tank of premium in the car the car the hesitation is nearly all gone..

[Pulsating]

I'm trying the normal ULP experiment again. Last time I would have had some Ultimate in the tank. Have tried one tank (not fully empty though) of ULP and as with before hestitation has reduced. Will run a few more tanks to see if it goes all together.

[cargle]

yeah my car was definelty better in the morning with pulp instead of ultimate.

but I am back on ultimate, as there is a very noticeable performance gain from using ultimate, over normal and premium unleaded.

my car only bogs down a little anyway..

but for ppl who's cars bog down real bad, I'd suggest trying ulp or pulp, and see if it helps and then from there maybe be able to have some more clues to fix the problem..