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Rex
3rd March 2002, 12:24 PM
I just swapped my pod for a panel filter and notice better low-end but slightly worse top-end

im going to duct some 3" pipe from the standard box to the front foglight hole, do u reckon this will work ok?

Splash
3rd March 2002, 01:03 PM
you should have a look at the March Hot 4s. There is an air filter guide in there, aswell as a cold air tech bit.

SILVRSSS
4th March 2002, 11:50 AM
I have used all the options, pod with CAI, heat sheild no heat sheild, CAI twin with Pod, Panel with single CAI and twin CAI, and I use just a panel with dual CAI. Seems to work better unless ur using an enlosure for the pod (they have greater surface area) with a decent CAI.

Also N/A engines don't benefit from large pods unless you do extensive head mods (and I mean extensive). Also pods have a tendency to move around and panels are just easier and don't attract attention from the bacon...:D

Splash
12th March 2002, 01:14 PM
yeah, even tho i love the sound of the pod, i'm thinking about putting the standard air box back in..

now i gotta figure out where i can route a cold air intake without it turning into a cold dirt/water intake.. :)

Rex
12th March 2002, 02:08 PM
i took out that air resonator box and routed the pipe thru the larger hole near the airbox down into the chamber where the resonator used to be, works pretty damn well

bretto
22nd March 2002, 11:54 PM
hmmm i have got the standard box in there at the moment and was thinking about getting a POD.

Do u guys reccomend it? If u get a Pod do u have to get some heat sheilded pipes as well and how much would it cost all up?

Just curious because from what i have read before i thought they improve throttle response over the whole rev range.

Rex
25th March 2002, 12:12 AM
here is how i did mine:

http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/rex666/pulsar/pulsar13.jpg
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/rex666/pulsar/pulsar14.jpg
notice the pipe behind the mesh

Spectrix
25th March 2002, 11:40 AM
Very Tidy mesh job there Rex
Looks great :)

Where did you get your ducting from?
So neat it almost looks factory...

Spectrix
25th March 2002, 12:30 PM
I did some testing with a manometer (this is a device that tests vacuums and pressure, but it cannot tell you how 'manly' you are) I found interesting results;

I put the cold air feed pipe back in, this is 65mm pvc piping that runs from the stock air box to halfway down the guard.
The manometer sensor was placed next to the pipes mouth.
Basically the results showed that the n15 s2 guard does not make a vacuum at speed (as some people had told me) infact it’s under pressure at speed, even with the factory spotlight covers in place.
There was a small pressure increase achieved by removing the spotlight covers, (around 10%) and a small pressure increase achieved by ducting extra air from a rectangular pipe placed just infront of the radiator, which directed air behind the spotlight cover into the guard. (around 13%)
Please note we're talking about relatively small amounts of pressure, i.e. tenths of a psi, so a 10-13% increase is nothing to get exited about. The main aim of the test was to ascertain whether the guard was a viable place to start a cold air feed.

Rex
25th March 2002, 01:44 PM
does that mean its a good place or not?
ive noticed that its ironed out all the flat spots and has way better pickup throttle response than the pod, although i miss that rorty induction noise :(

btw your avatar rulz! :D

Spectrix
25th March 2002, 03:15 PM
Well the results from testing with the manometer indicate that the guard has a similar pressure to the engine bay, so you wont be getting any negative boost or vacuum by putting your intake there, infact you'll gain a little pressure.

Basically you'll be getting a very slight increse in boost, prolly up to around 14.8 - 15.0 psi depending on your altitude.

Yes thats right, all our N/A cars are running close to 15 pounds of boost, but thats only cause standard air pressure (at sea level) is 14.7 psi. Which means theres 14.7 pounds per square inch pushing against the exhaust aswell. Damn.

So yes, the n15 s2 guard is a good place to mount an intake cause it's slightly higher pressure and it's gonna be 5 -10*c cooler than the engine bay at speed, and up to 30*c cooler at idle (These figures are depending on motor temps and whether or not the thermo fans are on.)

Rex
25th March 2002, 04:17 PM
Ahhh good, I was trying to decypher what you said in the previous post, i wasnt sure if it was good or bad :D

Spectrix
8th April 2002, 10:21 AM
I was reading about intake pipe tuning and how using a pod to replace the factory airbox can sometimes upset the airflow meter with turbulant air. I don't thing this is the case on an sr20, however I did try going for a run with the CAI removed, ie using the stock airbox with no feeder pipe at all. It ran like a dog. Wicked induction noise happing on full throtle but it was so rough and sluggish. This indicates that the factory air feeder/replacement CAI plays an important role.
I think a gain my be possible by relocating the filter further from the airflow meter, thus creating a super smooth airstream. 'Course that would very difficult, time consuming and possibly a complete waste of time.

MPC
22nd April 2002, 07:01 AM
I bought a Unifilter Pod off Matt (thanks dude) from this group this weekend. I put it in on Saturday and found a very noticable difference. When I first put the headers and exhuast on I felt there was heaps of torque down low but above 5000rpm it felt a bit strainy. Now thats where things get exciting. It could be because I never had the feeder pipe attached to the airbox.....it didn't come with the car when I bought it. But yeh it feels quite a bit stronger and that induction noise above 4500 is almost arousing :P (I've used way too much petrol this weekend)

Just wondering if you guys think its a good idea to get rid of that snorkel (the part that goes from the bottom of the battery downwards) or does it actually help in directing air into the engine bay?

dan
22nd April 2002, 01:55 PM
hot-wire type afm as used in the sr20de motors may suffer from two problems when used with a pod filter.

#1: inaccuracy. afm's will give innacurate readings when the air flowing past/thru them is turbulent. they only measure the velocity of air passing past them, and it dosnt matter in which direction it passes.. so if a cubic inch of air got sucked past your afm, blown back, and then sucked past it again it would get measured twice, your ecu would think there is 2ci more air than there is and it'll run rich. a sort of negative benefit of this problem is that it is pretty hard for the ecu to think the motor is running lean, so it wont end up with your motor pinging

#2: destruction. if you're a bit overzealous with the oiling of your pod (or indeed, the oiling of your k+n panel filter) you'll find that some of the oil will get sucked thru the filter and will accumulate on the wire of the afm, which will result in it being ruined. nfi what one costs to replace, but it can be avoided by being frugal with your filter oiling.

hope this helps :)

ps: mikeg, if you read the forums i'd be interested to hear about your induction system.

naturaldisasta
23rd April 2002, 01:37 PM
Another thing.. give time for the ECU to "learn" I am not too sure about how long it takes for a sr20de, but ca18's took a few hundred k's until they settle down.

Damon

Zhecka
7th May 2002, 12:29 AM
Hey, Spectrix where did u get your manometer from? What brand is it?

Splash
7th May 2002, 04:37 AM
i think he got it from manometers 'R' Us, and its the dodgy home-brand model ;)

hehe

I think there is an artical on Autospeed somewhere about making one..

kamikaze
7th May 2002, 08:03 AM
Ok Rex Where did you put the Pipe on the standard air box ?

Did you have to make a hole or what ?

Spectrix
9th May 2002, 02:01 PM
Yeah I made the manometer myself.

Its basically just a bottle with a piece of hose poking out of it - going into the engine bay. Inside the bottle is water with food colouring, and the start of the pipe, which is clear with marks every inch. The water in the pipe is forced down by pressure in the line, or pulled up by vacuum. You put the end of the pipe wherever you want to measure pressure/vacuum.
In order to measure post-filter vacuum/pressure, pull off the secondary resonator and replace it with a deodorant lid with a small hole drilled and the pipe feeding into it.

The manometer looks like drug paraphanalia... "Yes officer, it's a bong, but I didn't even have a toke... the car had a lot though..." :D

kamikaze
15th August 2002, 08:48 PM
leave it on mate.

Ask troy why also ask rich why.

WSSSUP
15th August 2002, 09:40 PM
All i can say is POD rules. Best thing since Extra CRUNCHY PEANUT BUTTER!!!!!



woooooooooooooo


Boney:bounce: :roll:

stama
15th August 2002, 10:47 PM
i read on CAA that its now illegal to have pod filters

is this true or not?

i only got one 2 weeks ago

xlnsss
15th August 2002, 11:20 PM
i think they have always been illegal from an emissions and noise pollution view. That is what most pod filter defects are usually for noise pollution. But if u get it engineered its ok. To pass engineering you just have to sheild it from the rest of the engine bay.