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Hey guys,
I've had quite a few people emailing me recently asking about a door tutorial thread. So without further ado; this is how to install midrange drivers into Pulsar doors.
Step one: Take one original door complete from factory. Remove the plastic splash guard and the goo that holds the plastic on (don't stress about water getting through - the deadening will stop it).
Step two: Apply sound deadening to outer skin.
Step three: Add diffuser panels behind the speaker.
Step four: Run aftermarket speaker cables through the door loom tubes. This is important because there's no fuse between the amplifier and the speakers - if the factory wires are too small they'll get hot.
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Step five: Make the baffles. These take a similar shape to the factory ones and screw into the factory screw holes (thus avoiding damaging the door). They're usually constructed from MDF but we've made them from perspex or even 6061 alloy depending on application. If they are MDF then they should be painted with polyester resin to avoid absorbing water.
Step six: Sound deaden inner skin and remove all air bubbles. Make sure you leave enough clearance for door handle and lock control rods to move freely. Also leave a little deadening around the top of the speaker hole to act as a 'roof' against water when it rains.
Step seven: Screw the baffle onto the door and seal the baffle onto the deadening with gap filler. Make sure you also install a gasket between the speaker and the spacers because air leaks out here too (ever tried to run your car without a head gasket)?
Step eight: Solder the trimmed speaker wires onto speaker. Don't use crimp terminals because their two best traits are falling off and creating resistance.
Step nine: Heat shrink around the terminals to protect them. Unlike electrical tape, heat shrink will not begin moving after a couple of months.
Step ten: Sit back and enjoy your new found midbass. This is what the door looks like when complete:
So there you have it; one Pulsar door with midranges installed. Using this method you have about 68mm of mounting depth (using 18mm MDF). Any deeper than that and your speaker might impact the door trim during large excursions.
Last edited by Fhrx; 16th June 2010 at 12:58 PM.
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Last edited by Fhrx; 26th March 2007 at 05:16 PM.
hey man looks the goods, this is exactly the way i do my installs. when i did my N13 i pulled of the trims....n seeing as i was there i rust proofed the car as well. lol
Quote from a wise man
"no.....you cant drift your fwd, idiot."
hey come do my doors please.....
N15 SSS: The damm thing finally starts and runs well. bout damm time
Meh, I never use crimpers anyways, it's easier to solder
Manfred: "Sid, the tiger found a short cut."
Sid: "No thanks, I choose life."
Moody Blue N15 SSSs2 - Pretty much stock
great write up... maybe should be in the technical section?
Sorry to revamp an oldish thread, but I gotta couple of questions..
1: Doesn't the diffuser panel interfere with the window?
2: In pic 5, what is that black cover/panel stuff?
and lastly
3: What sort of cost is involved to buy the materials?
Cheers,
Joshy
I'm spending a year dead for tax reasons.
"Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained.."
the defusser doesnt interfere with the window, ive got the same in my car. the black material is g-spot sound deadener, not really used anymore as i believe they went out of business
Damn very nice if i got some decent speakers id definitely install them like this now, thx for bringing up the old thread (my front speakers are currently sticky taped in....ssshhh :P)
Thanks for that N_16er,
So is that black material effectively the same as the silver Dynamat stuff?
I'm spending a year dead for tax reasons.
"Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained.."
simular to dynamat, I perfer dynamat to the g - spot. pretty flexable and never a problem sticking to what you want
Have three sound deadening sheets been used? It looks like there is one dynamat sheet in the outer skin, then a second sheet (g spot) and then a dynamat sheet over that.
Can water get inside and wet the outer skin sheet?
Not if it's applied correctly.![]()
how much does the sound deadining cost?
Sorry I must have misread that. I thought he was asking can the water get under the sound deadening. Nismo is quite correct; your doors get quite we inside when it's raining. That is why the majority of speakers are water resistant (although not 'proof').![]()
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